Every year on Raksha Bandhan, thousands of people climb to the hilltop shrine of Maa Varahi at Devidhura in Champawat district. In the temple ground, men from four local clans, called khams, gather with turbans in their clan colours and shields woven from bamboo and ringal.
At a signal from the priests, the Bagwal begins: the clans hurl fruit, flowers and, traditionally, stones at each other while the crowd roars and drums beat. It usually lasts only a few minutes. When the priests decide enough has happened, they wave a cloth and the fighters stop, embrace, and leave as friends. In 2026 the Bagwal began at about 2 pm and lasted eight minutes.
The legend of Bagwal
People here say that long ago, the four khams, Chamyal, Walik, Gahadwal and Lamgadiya, had to offer a human sacrifice to the goddess every year, one clan at a time. One year the turn fell on an old woman of the Chamyal kham whose only family was her grandson. She prayed to Maa Varahi to save him.
The goddess agreed, on one condition: the clans would instead fight among themselves in her courtyard until blood equal to one human life had been spilled. That fight became the Bagwal, and it has been held on Raksha Bandhan ever since.
Bagwal today
The festival has changed over time. Stones have largely given way to fruit and flowers, though the spirit of the ritual remains. In July 2022 the Uttarakhand government declared the Maa Varahi Bagwal Mela a state fair. Around the main day there is a whole mela with stalls, folk songs and processions.
Why see Bagwal
A one-of-a-kind ritual
Nowhere else in India holds a ritual battle quite like this.
Maa Varahi Dham
A hilltop shrine among huge boulders and deodar forest.
Living folk culture
Clan colours, drums, songs and a whole village fair.
Before you go
- Raksha Bandhan falls on Shravan Purnima, usually in August; check the date each year.
- The Bagwal itself starts in the afternoon and lasts only minutes; be in position early.
- Carry a rain jacket; it is monsoon season.
- Stays in Devidhura are very basic; Lohaghat and Champawat have more options.
Bagwal Mela FAQs
When is Bagwal Mela held?
Every year on Raksha Bandhan (Shravan Purnima), usually in August, at the Maa Varahi temple in Devidhura.
Do they still throw stones in Bagwal?
Mostly fruit and flowers are used now, though the ritual remains a real, physical contest behind shields.
Who takes part in Bagwal?
Men from four khams (clans): Chamyal, Walik, Gahadwal and Lamgadiya.
Is Bagwal safe for spectators?
Watch from the stands or a raised spot away from the ground. Children and elderly visitors should stay well back.
Where is Devidhura?
In Champawat district, about 45 km from Lohaghat and roughly 125 km from Haldwani by road.
